Archive for the ‘Surf Stuff’ Category


Saturday morning and  here we were having yet another discussion about money. This morning’s went something like this……

MBH   “Do you think that investment fund is secure? 

Me      “Err not sure………..probably……err…..we should probably call them and find out…”

MBH    “Ok….. we’ll call them on Monday…….. let’s go to the beach and check out the waves” 

The beach was pristine, the sun came out as we arrived, the water was glassy as there was no wind and the waves were rolling in nice and steady……. perfect.  

Sliding down the face of a wave and hurtling towards the beach in the white water as it falls away and then builds again is pure and simple joy and its good for the soul.

We were alone out on the waves, and there were only a handful of people in total at the beach. Playing in the ocean is free, it’s healthy and it doesn’t hurt the environment or the climate so where is everyone? 

Shopping? Sulking? On the phone to the bank? I’m hoping for more waves tomorrow.

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There’s a lady in the UK, Clara Meadmore who after turning 105 says that the key to a long life is plenty of walking, the odd glass of wine and remaining a virgin. Don’t panic I have a plan and its going to be good as I don’t drink wine.

I reckon I can safely swap the “odd glass of wine” for the odd slice of cake as they both make you feel happy unless you over do it, then they both make you throw up and they are both fattening.

Now to the tricky one of virginity, this was more of a challenge as it is a state of mind as well as a physical state. My plan is to swap virginity for surfing. They are both a state of mind, a lifestyle and in Clara’s case clearly very healthy. 

So that’s the plan…. plenty of walking, the odd cake and remaining a surfer.

 I think I’ve nailed it and I am looking forward to a long and happy life.

I would love to have a chat with 105 year old Clara who seems very pragmatic about it all saying that she was never interested in sex and “I imagine there’s a lot of hassle involved”. Wow, Clara your insight is shocking but like many things in life that are a lot of hassle there’s also a lot of happiness and a lot of fun so my advice to Clara is that it is never too late and never say never.

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Another rainy day in Catalonia, time to indulge my own private travel porn fetish. I recently heard the phrase food porn used to describe a TV cooking show and travel porn works for me as a term to describe travel websites, shows and magazines where the destinations are very much in the realm of fantasy.

My favourite beach in the world is Injidup Beach in Western Australia and it falls head first into the travel porn category. It is a 4-hour drive South of Perth in the Margaret River Wine region of Western Australia.Injidup Beach

We found it when we were searching for a surf break that I had read about, which is exactly how many great things are found, when you are actually looking for something else. If you don’t look you wont find.

Injidup is totally unspoiled, there is one mega mansion being built by a Brit (bloody typical) and a small low-rise unobtrusive spa retreat.

The sand is clean, pure white and fine with a massive dune in the corner, excellent for working off some excess energy or doing Lawrence of Arabia impersonations. The water is crystal clear, there is no pollution and in the summer it is warm.

There is no café; no hotel and no gift shop only the most magnificent natural beauty that you could imagine.

There is a car park with steps down to the beach or you can sit at the top of the steps in the lookout area and watch the dolphins playing in the surf, the humans playing in the surf or on a no swell day simply lap up the natural beauty.

Many days you will be alone on the beach unless the swell is up and you will have a bunch of laid-back surfers for company. The surf break is a point break and needs some swell to get going, it is usually uncrowded.

Flies can be a problem in the summer, more specifically if you do go on a day when there are flies they can be unbearable. Luckily most days are no fly days and the Aussies are working on a dung beetle program that apparently should reduce the number of flies?

If you are in search of natural beauty this is the beach for you.

PS I will post some more photos on the photo link.

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Beware of the Aussie ocean it can be really dangerous.

Australia’s beaches are probably the #1 attraction for overseas visitors but they can be dangerous. What do you reckon is the biggest danger?

The great white shark from Jaws? The deadly Irukandji jellyfish? 20 foot long saltwater crocodiles? Venomous sea snakes? Or the baby stealing dingo..ooops dingoes don’t usually hang at the beach.

Nope, the biggest danger by far are the waves and rip currents . I’ve had to rescue 4 swimmers in the last 3 years. I don’t even live here, I am not that good of a swimmer and I don’t look anything like a lifesaver. All were fellow Brits. Maybe they see me coming and just pretend to be in trouble so I get to do my Baywatch impersonation, although with much smaller…. what’sits.

There are warning signs at beaches but no one takes any notice, we need a new approach. The immigration or customs and excise forms could include something along the lines of…. “The waves in Australia are a hundred times more powerful than anything you have met at Brighton or Blackpool so do not get in unless you are a really good swimmer. If you do get in, a rip current may start dragging you out to sea but don’t panic it will stop soon. Most people drown from fighting the rip so go with the flow. Always ask advice from the lifesavers and if there are no lifesavers do not go in the water. “

Off to polish up on my lifesaving techniques. Coming soon more Australian beach stories.

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smiths-beach-march-08.jpgThere is usually a good beach break at the famous Smiths Beach but beach breaks are very temperamental as sand is always on the move. Smiths has been pretty hopeless for beginner surfers looking for white water in the last month. There was some weather last week and the sand is back. It’s fun if a bit short; it is totally uncrowded during the week and is a beautiful spot.

Surfing in the South West of Western Australia is not beginner’s territory hence the importance of Smiths to those of us still with our trainer wheels and to bodyboarders looking for an easy fun ride.

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